Perusing Peru

All things considered, our 24 hours of travel from Guatemala to Peru went pretty darn well. We did have to add a few extra bus rides to our travel extravaganza, but we´ll talk about that fiasco a little later.

Everything went according to plan on our flights from Guatemala City to Miami, Miami to Lima, and Lima to Cuzco.

From the Cuzco airport, we took a taxi to the bus terminal to catch our bus to Urubamba. The terminal was more of a back dirt alley filled with buses, but it looked somewhat legitimate. We paid our 7 soles (just over $2) and hit the road for an hour and forty-five minute ride. The scenery was amazing. There were huge mountains poking up around every corner. We started off with a nearly empty bus but we kept stopping along the route to pick up more locals. Before long, the bus was packed and we could hear a cat meowing and a pig squealing from somewhere within the bus. It was a pretty interesting bus ride.

Once in Urubamba we got in a collectivo (mini-bus taxi) for about a thirty minute ride to our final destination of Ollantaytambo. The buses averaged anywhere from 17 – 25 passengers, with “seats” for about 15. So needless to say, it was pretty cozy. About half-way into the ride, Haley discovered that her camera was not in her possession, and had left it on the previous bus ride. So once we got to Ollantaytambo, we crammed into the next bus back to Urubamba to see if the bus and the camera were still around. We were pretty doubtful as we pulled into the station, but to our surprise, the bus and camera were still there. Haley gave the driver a little finders fee, and then we headed back to Ollantaytambo for the second time. Luckily, the extra bus rides didn’t break the budget. A ticket cost about $.40.

Ollantaytambo is located deep in a valley (think Columbia River Gorge on steroids). It´s a great little town that is mainly a stop along the way to Machu Picchu. Our hostel, KB Tambo, was a pretty decent place. The room was OK, a bit cold, but in our budget. The hostel´s best qualities were the really great hot water showers and a tasty restaurant (yummy guacamole). That evening, we kicked around town and explored the scenic stonewalled streets. Weary from the previous day´s travels, and looking forward to Machu Picchu in the morning, we called it an early night.

Up and at ‘em at 4:30 am the following day, we made our way to the train station to catch the nearly two hour train to Aguas Calientes, which is the launching point to Machu Picchu. The train was surprisingly empty and freezing cold. It follows along the Urubamba River and offers some really great scenery, which was tough to enjoy with our chattering teeth.

We arrived in Aguas Calientes at 7:30 am, about two hours before the trains from Cuzco arrived. We were able to get our room, buy tickets to Machu Picchu and hop on the bus well before the Cuzco herds arrived. After a 25 minute bus ride on a single lane, dirt road that got progressively scarier after each switchback, we were finally there!

Machu Picchu, what can we say? Everyone should go. Seriously! And do it soon. According to our Lonely Planet guide book, scientists have determined that the mountain´s slopes are slipping at the rate of 1 cm per month, making a catastrophic landslide possible.

The ruins were pretty standard (we´ve seen a few). The location and hugeness of everything around the site is what blew us away. This place is perched on an island in the sky. The cliffs surrounding the ruins fall off for thousands of feet to the valley floor below, and pick back up to form massive mountains all around. There were even llamas (Haley´s new favorite animal) meandering around. We covered most of the site during the morning hours, and then took a lunch break just as the masses were arriving. After lunch, we ambitiously hiked to the Gateway of the Sun (Intipunku), a few hours round trip to the south, which offered a great vista of the ruins. We were pretty wiped-out by the end of the day. Walking up and down steep hills at 9,000 feet doesn´t do a body good. Nonetheless, we were troopers and managed to make a full day of it.

Back in town we showered-up and checked our guide book for dinner suggestions. We found a French Peruvian place, Indio Feliz (Happy Indian) that turned out to serve ridiculously amazing food. Jim´s chicken dish gave Rosita´s (our Honduras host) chicken a run for her money. With full stomachs and tired bodies we retired early for the night.

The next morning we hopped on a train back to Ollantaytambo. Again, we stayed at KB Tambo. This time we opted for the much upgraded “matrimonial suite.” We didn’t do much that day, and after buying a few souvenirs the following morning, we began our journey to Easter Island.

All-in-all, we really loved Peru, and wish we had a bit more time to explore. The country is filled with amazing natural beauty, and the people couldn´t have been nicer. Can´t wait to return.

As always, here are some pics: